Again, will be a “counts as” Dragon, but the visual appeal will look great. You can find them from various producers such as Khurasan. Also, if you so wish, trade out the Dragon minis for ones carrying Javelins. We always had at least one M240 machine gun on mission, and this will help with visual aesthetics. While they will simply be another team, I strongly suggest modeling a MG team in each platoon. Then, paint small dots of Chocolotae brown and Stone Grey in random places on the mini (about 1/3 total coverage). Paint irregular splotches of Green Grey and Medium Olive, covering about 2/3rds of the miniature. To achieve multicam, start with a base of German Camo Beige. This pattern is a little more complex to paint, requiring 5 colors and a bit of patience. In the mid 2010s, the Army started to transition to the far superior OCP (Objective Camouflage Pattern, commonly known as MultiCam). The trick is to allow the previous layers to show through. I achieved ACU by painting my minis in Vallejo Camo Beige or Deck Tan, then carefully drybrushed layers of Light Green Blue and German Camo Extra Dark Green.
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Now, you’re probably wondering how to paint such a tiny pattern on a 15mm mini. However, it was the uniform from 2006-2014 roughly. This was a bluish-green pixelated camouflage that, frankly, sucked. However, in 2006 the Army went from BDUs to the controversial UCP (Universal Camouflage Pattern) which we in the army tended to refer to as ACU (Army Combat Uniform). Now, EARLY 2000s (2000-2006) BDUs are perfectly usable as we were still wearing them. So, one thing to do to switch your force from the 80s/90s to the 2000s is to change your camo patterns on your infantry. An M7 BFIST I kitbashed for my force Uniforms and Infantry Platoons So if you’re looking for 21st century, go tan paint. In the early 2000s vehicles went from being green or NATO camo to tan. Overall, you want to go for accurate kit (but, hey, its your Army!). The Bradleys should be M2A2 standard across the board, as they are the baseline type now. M981 FIST – Got to put those redundant hammerheads to use! So, while M113s and M60s are cheap, you should be looking at Bradleys and IPM1 Abrams (at a minimum as A1s are ungodly expensive in points).īut fear not! The M113 Mortars are still around, and you can still use the M113 FIST (Though I strongly advise using the M901 model for accuracy if you so choose). While yes, it does limit your choices somewhat, this will be keeping with the look as well as “feel” of a force from the 2000s. If you want to go for 21st century kit, you have to start with ACTUAL 21st century kit (Put that RDF/LT Down!). Ok, so lets get the obvious out of the way. With that said, consider this a template to change your 1980s Americans to 2000+ Americans and have them looking good on the tabletop. However, after 2001, I got a thorough education in the Army while serving in places like Washington, Germany, and Texas. I was just a small lad in the 80s, and only just aware of the significance of Operation Desert Storm in 1991. Me, I like to pattern my forces on units I served in, or conflicts I have either fought in, or read about. Some look for key details, some kitbash unique pieces, others paint a certain way. You can find all of the cheats and combination references for the various quest, puzzles, or special combinations such as artifacts.Let’s face it, we as hobbyists are always looking to make our armies stand out on the tabletop. Thank you for using our website to help you complete and master the game and become the ultimate combo master in these awesome Doodle games including Doodle God, Doodle Evil, and Doodle Farm.
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